Hitch-hiking Back to Balkans. Day One. Bye Riga!

Hungary, 6 km away from Serbian border

Here I've gathered bit some pieces from my journey to Serbia at the end of June 2011. Although my final destination was Serbia, beside exploring the road stories and people I met on the way in Lithuania, Poland, Hungary and Serbia itself, I also managed to go a bit further to Macedonia, which was my EVS (European Voluntary Service) country in 2009/2010. Each blog post on this journey (with a label Back to Balkans 2011) presents one day on the road and all the details I've managed to grasp on the way in form of people I've met, thoughts I had and sometimes silly experiences that I got myself into. The journey started in my home country Latvia on 23rd June 2011.

Urban Stories: A Fairy in a Bluish Purple Smock

© Marta Podniece 'Autumn in Riga'

She starts her day always the same way: by sweeping yellow leaves into bigger and smaller piles, swearing on guys that throw cigarette butts on the ground instead of throwing them in the bin and she's always there - welcoming random people on their way to work, being a psychotherapist while listening to the petulant stories of grannies of how much the old bones hurt and that the medicine has become way too expensive, greeting the postman who's trying to enter the blockhouse but apparently forgotten the entry code as he stays at the front too long, probably thinking. This everyday ritual hasn't changed at all, at least for the last 20 years. It might be very possible that the prisoners inhabiting the cells of this Blockhouse Paradise have changed, the kids of them have already grown up, but she's still there - sweeping the streets and washing the stairways of the blockhouse with chlorine (so the smell is worse than in a public swimming pool). So invisible and at the same time regular she is. She's like a thing that belongs to this particular Blockhouse Paradise, even more than the actual prisoners of the inhabited cells. She's like a clock of existence. She's like a painting on a wall in a famous museum (which is admired through the centuries, yet nobody cares to bother, as long as it is there and nobody has taken it away). She is an icon of this live Museum of Cells, where behind the closed doors people tend to quarrel, love, cook dinners and oversleep working hours. It seems to be a way of being a part of a randomly formed social group, though unintentionally.

Her bluish purple smock does not change colors either (color of royalty, wealth and wisdom) as the years pass by and it is an integral part of this urban museum icon, of her being. And her face is a face of an angel in a Forgotten World filled with degenerates, drug addicts, young families and old couples, homeless cats and sometimes dogs, living inside or nearby this particular Blockhouse Paradise, living in a space that has no signs of high culture, with not a single building that would evoke high appreciation or amazement, not a single positive vibe around... maybe that's why these districts are called the 'sleeping' residential complexes... and there are many of them, having many of these urban fairies in bluish purple smocks sweeping around the magic dust.

Prague Airport: The Smells and Love Stories

© Marta Podniece 'Prague Airport'

I'm traveling in memories. In memories of the best study times of 2008 that happened to be in Prague. I would love to see more than just the Airport but the time is limited. 

Czech language sounds as usually soft even it's told to be completely opposite of soft. However, this time I can hardly understand what people are talking about.

I love airports. I love those masses of people passing each other, searching either their gates or the right perfumes in duty-free shops, carrying luggage of different sizes and colors. So many contrasts at one spot, in this multi-cultural mass of business men with elegant suitcases, mums worryingly dragging their kids to WCs, beautiful strangers that you fall-in and out of love as fast as the gate-ways are rolling and what a pity - you're heading in a different direction, smoking prohibitions, innovations on advertising boards and all around, bored baristas in small coffee worlds situated tightly next to each other, people communicating in all possible languages of the world or being silent and thinking great thoughts. There's something magical on this tiny spot of a land known as the Airport, the spot which almost never disappoints you and fulfills your hope of flying, flying artificially though.

Life of an NGO - Leading Politics Without Government

© (RED)

You are young and strong willed? You know what you want to achieve in your nearest future? Or actually you have no clue about the future, but you have some bright ideas at the present, which could change exactly your future and the society you're living in? Just start a magazine, make an art workshop for kids, help to prevent poverty in Africa, set up a football match against racism, create a workshop to clean your city - do whatever is good to keep society curious and aware about certain meaningful topics - and an NGO is one of the best to do it!

Like in the beginning of the world there was a purpose of creating something (if we believe that was this 'cosmic' dust transformed into the planet Earth we inhabit now), and creating starts mainly with an idea. An idea which survives the times, circumstances and problems. The same can be referred to the creation on a non-governmental organization (further NGO). Mainly in the beginning it's just a small group of enthusiastic people sharing the same interests about certain topics and a big desire to influence the on-going affairs in on a local or global level (feeling the urge of preventing certain problems/speaking out about global consequences in local communities/alter 'unhealthy' thinking etc.).

Architecture - Real Estate of Mind

Architecture - not just a science of building stable houses with different shapes and accessories, according to current fashion... and architects - not just brave knights of future thinking drawing chimneys and projecting constructions of new libraries in their imaginative mind, while speaking with you... there's definitely something more... more professional and dealing with responsibility - for creating or improving living environments for countless generations...

However in all times an architect as an image of a person, architecture and the profession of the architect were profoundly defined terms in the consciousness of society and it won't change its' meaning despite strong influence of differentiated social contexts. It stays as real estate presenting all kinds of emotions carried within the creation process...

Road Trippin' in Serbia

© Marta Podniece 'Morning in Belgrade'

The morning starts early. While other bohemians like me are sleeping I'm already leaving this inspiring place located somewhere near the city center of Belgrade, wishing them to have a great time and encouraging to meeting again in the future. Yeah, you know - this White City is something truly mine! I've reached Slavia and just missed the bus. However, the next bus No.31 should come soon and it does. The bus goes in the right direction (out of the city) but that wouldn't be me if I didn't go at least two stops too far. So I did. But it's not a big deal... a morning walk in fresh air should not be taken for granted. I walk to the bridge with blue railings, then walk down the stairs and here in the middle of two roads the 'hitchin' a ride' starts. 

To my amazement I did not have to wait too long, since the first car that saw me stopped and here my journey continues in a little truck driven by a nice old man in direction to Niš with an average speed of 70 km/h. At the start we engage in a lively discussion in a mix of Serbian-Macedonian sentences about how pretty Belgrade is, where we are from and what we are doing in life at this very moment. However, as the journey to Niš is taking quite a long time, after discussion found its' endpoint the journey continues in a silent mode with occasional exchange of cigarettes and short interruptions on themes of unemployment in the country, recycling and cities in Serbia 'you should definitely see before you die'.

Christopher Fleming

© Christopher Fleming

You don't know Christopher Fleming? How come you don't know Christopher Fleming? Those wonderful guitar parts, tremendous lyrics, a thrilling voice and a romantic soul after all! That's our creative and sentimental being of our friendly EVS family!

'Lord, here I go again... day in, day out...' beside lyrics that touch the strings of your soul the flowing sounding of a guitar along with it makes a bit dreamy, nostalgic and longing effect for the feel indescribable and yet undefined. It gently presents the scars of the past and the heart bleeding yet still able to feel the sincere and the beautiful... showing the image of a dreamer's eyes despite the pink glasses falling down, staying the same... full of hope.

However, in the compositions [I just heard 3 of them, but I know that there will be more!] I've noticed a tiny bit of influence from 'British pop' music guru's of the late 90-ties, which I think was an inspiring moment in the music scene back then. It's great to see this influence of the past times [when lyrics mattered] go steadily through the barriers of present times and offer the world new original tracks that remind us the importance of words and the way they can express the diverse nature of human feelings. I could find it in Christopher's music which despite the changing times stay romantic, meaningful and with a strong message.

Rock This Macedonian Party

Struga's DuoSlide

This story could be easily referred to most of the creative people seeking for success in music industry today. Nowadays it is pretty hard to surprise the fastidious public, which we present with an image of ourselves. We desire more, we ask for more amazement and entertaining positivism in the enormous world of sounds as well as cute attraction points in every song we hear, which makes us if not scream along in euphoria then at least make a little finger-play on a wooden bar-table producing 'echo-effect' along with the original drum beats of the song.

To be an artist is a hard work to do which nevertheless is mixed with feeling of enjoyment. It's harder than before to shine among numerous underground amateurs trying to fulfill their dream to be heard. It's life of a poet as you never know what you will get, but you never stop creating. You never stop searching for the reflections of your rich imaginary world and making them appealing to the rest of the world. You just never stop.

So what's going on here in Struga in terms of musical talents? I can tell it's a town full of very talented kids [surprisingly they stand out with an ability to play more than one musical instrument] that grew up with the sounds of The Rolling Stones, Eric Clapton, Depeche Mode and Metallica. Metallica more than other bands for sure, as you can hear them [these very talented kids] quite often trying to repeat and master the magnificence of Metallica's solos on their electric guitars.

Bitola's Shine

So what is there to enjoy from these full-time young orchestras performing? When we speak of performing their own songs then I must say you don't hear them a lot. If you do then they're mostly made in pop-rock genre with a gentle touch of ska. However, when going for a concert of a local band playing in one of the town's numerous pubs what you can hear very often are revivals of old, well-known hits of the last decades of 20th century or the hits of nowadays, which is a bit disappointing. Maybe a factor that plays a huge difference here is a public demand for this type of content. Macedonians are a very open-hearted nation that enjoys spending a lot of time socializing in public places like bars, pubs, cafes [also during the day]. It explains a little bit the logic behind the question of why performing popular songs in pubs is a quite typical practice in Macedonia. Accordingly, it might take a while before your own song by luck or hard work becomes popular, which was the case of Struga's DuoSlide whose song 'Neobičen Krug' recently became famous countrywide. During their performance they also played their own songs, however the public got excited only in the moments when their famous song was played again and again, and the public could sing along. After their performance, the next band on the stage was Shine from Bitola, who entertained the public by performing well-known hits and sadly enough the public seemed more entertained. Anyhow, if you forget about the fact that someone else already performed a song and gained the rewards for it and just enjoy the new sounding of it, then you'll probably find yourself singing along with the crowd too... 'Sweet Child of Mine', 'Fly Away' or 'Cocaine'. All in all it's not that bad. Beside hearing the well-known hits I could sense a search for new ways to express the well-known songs in different, more individual or uniquer ways. It was catchy for the ear to hear pop or electronic music hits in various rock versions. For example, Lady Gaga's pieces performed in male voice and with some added rough interlude sounded pretty awesome. However, I hope there are more unique artists to be discovered on the Young Macedonian music scene than just plain cover-bands that fulfill demands of the public, though that is one tough road to go.

Ljube - The Child of Nature

The jeans jacket borrowed from friends, 'The Beatles' and sparkling flames of ardour coming from young generation wishing to change this world - that was in the 70-ties. Times are changing and passing by. But the sparkling flames have remained together with gained life experience. And the jeans jacket - that's his own property now, like the sparkling flames that are left now for other young generations.

He's wearing glasses in style of Dandies. He's smoking and making gestures, while telling the witty shortcuts of life stories, which unconsciously make the whole impression of the person he is now. He's telling that English wasn't sufficient to know in his youth, but clothing in 'manner of capitalism' was just a weird way to show the protest against existing dogmas of socialism, expanding horizons, not just seeing everything as a red square or green triangular (it depends how you perceive the conditions of proposed way of living in every political regime).

He's been attracted to art since childhood. He remembers himself drawing everything that was in his daily outlook. And this daily view was pleasant for a young artist to explore his talent and passion for art. The art of nature. The love of nature. The nature that saves and that kills. The nature that is saved and is killed. In many ways. This is his message to society - to save the environment! And show the exact problem through the flowing moves of a paintbrush.

He's blusterous, calling himself 'Narcissist' and why not? He has all rights to do that, as this story is only about his version of this world: through art, inside art and in crossroads of it. Nevertheless, the art is winning this game, even if everything is against it.

His activities can't be described in a few words, it's just like a feeling that can be only understood or not, like art itself. Beside our topic of Graffiti, which is also one of the expression fields of Ljube he makes art workshops (since 1993 in Art Association ZUM93, now ZUM 2002) around Macedonia, with this action letting the society know that nature is dying because of our own non-sense. Maybe painting the dead fish and polluted forests in an impressionistic way is not really helping nature directly, but people buy the paintings, people see the exhibitions and the true feelings of artists and the story every painting keeps inside. Beside the activating art in non-governmental way and saving the nature, he is Professor of Arts, working in a school in Struga and helping young talents to find themselves in the world of creating, despite the fact that art still remains an amateur profession ruled mostly by enthusiasts. 

The true child of nature. Maybe he will continue with Ljubeism as kind of new religion, which will take masses to follow him and create the beauty, leaving the messages to the world... 'You may say that I'm a dreamer, but I'm not the only one. I hope someday you'll join us and the world will be as one...' [John Lennon 'Imagine']

The Oxygen.

Starting with the rhythm of hip-hop and a skin-head guy rapping on the radio microphone. Talking hard. The composition number one says the title: 'The Oxygen'.

The Oxygen - the dance of lungs. And the story goes on... about a girl from the big city and the boy from the provinces both called Sasha. Their love starts as usual sentimentally and suddenly noticing that lungs are dancing, the oxygen comes in bigger doses. Love in this case is compared to Oxygen - at least somebody made an alternative phrase of describing 'Butterflies in Stomach'. And butterflies appear either in a few significant moments of the movie. 

But the plot is more complicated than just love among two youngsters likely smoking weed in front of big monuments. The problem goes deeper, and for comparison the lack or either loads of 'Oxygen' can cause all the biggest mistakes made by mankind. And examples are given in the next compositions of the movie. Full track contains 10 of them, covered in simple and easy discussion on present day topics skillfully using the elements that create the modern culture of the youth. Talking about Islamic countries, 11th September 2001, which was all made in name of big 'love' (shown in videos of war and named as 'LOVE PARADE'), and youth dependent on drugs, suffering either from big love or lack of it. The next composition called 'Amnesia' tries to provide a solution - 'Organize your brain clinical amnesia. Organize - I don't remember anything, anything, anything...'.

Movie is precisely describing the youth of the world, portraying the life of Russian example. The mixture of scenes similar to ideology and performance presented in  'Pump Up the Volume', 'Trainspotting' and 'Run Lola Run' appear in the flow of pictures, taking the best part of it. Outstanding thinking, hippies running naked in the field of weed, rebels and all those who are in search for understanding in this world. Ironic, containing delicious comparisons, excellent game of words, which touch, take over and settle down in memory. The above mentioned 'Dance of Lungs', 'Provincial Fur and Fleas of Big City', 'Heart in a Shape of a Big Double-Bed' and many others made by this hard talk of storytellers, alternating with visualization containing scenes of decelerated reality and as well impressive surrealism [e.g., girl walking on the moon in black gumboots decorated with colorful flowers, break-dance mixing with sound of broken glass]. The movie speaks to you and your conscience.

Organize your brain Amnesia and add some Oxygen!

Un Coeur, S'il Vous Plaît.

© Marta Podniece

The experts from the French corner of the world are saying that only musicians with licences are allowed to play music in Paris Underground, which they get by fairly winning an official competition for that matter. The musical fight for the legal being in an eternal draft! [Amazing.] The source of income and the main challenge in life wrapped in one candy. I guess the true meaning of this 'being' is far more deeper than the eternal wind on the stairs. It's all about Love-thing, I think.

City of Paris. The morning [Bonjour!] Kisses on both cheeks. The smell of newly-baked croissants, lyrically drizzling rain, small parks and miniature streets, and people in them. Those who never hurry but are always on time. The sentimental keepers of old stuff. Those listening to music on vinyl plates and sharing memories. Talking a lot. Giving flowers to their heart-ladies and arguing about politics. Tasting life like newly-baked croissants. [Slow down. Pleasure up.]

Wax Tailor featuring Charlotte Savary 'Seize the Day' is sharing a pleasant melancholy with me and my contemplation. The delicious music piece from 'Paris' movie. About those - sentimental yet punctual, designing life as a molecular equation and dreaming out future plans, playing modern harlots and being immigrants. About those, who are young again and in love, and those, who live their last days while being young. About colorful games of destiny.

Imaginary Paris. [More to love...]